Popcorn Texture Removal Durham
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Popcorn Texture Removal Durham
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In addition to your basic utility knife, you'll need some special tools for cutting drywall sheets.
For making square cuts, use a drywall T-square. Set your sheets of drywall upright with the smooth side out. Set the T-square on the top edge and line it up with your measurement. Run a utility knife along the side of the "T" to score your cut. Snap the sheet back to break the sheet along the cut. Then cut the paper back with a utility knife.
For making cuts around obstacles you can use a drywall saw. Just use a back-and-forth motion like you would for any hand saw.
Cutting your sheets slightly too big is better than too small. You can always shave the ends off with a rasp.
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For cutting around electrical boxes use a keyhole saw. Just punch the tip through the drywall and cut along each side. You can also use a power jig saw for these cuts.
For round cuts, like around light fixture boxes, use a circle cutter. Find the center of your circle and punch in the center marker. Adjust the arm to the radius of your circle and use it to score the perimeter of the circle. Do the same on the other side of the sheet. Tap out the cut out with a hammer. You can also use a compass to draw the circles, and a keyhole saw to cut them.
There's also a power tool professionals use that's designed specifically for cutting out holes for electrical boxes and fixtures. It's like a drywall router, and they use it to cut the holes after the sheets of drywall are up. This is a lot faster then cutting them all by hand.
If you do end up renting one of these power routers be careful so you don't strip the electrical wiring inside.
Drywall Lifts and Jacks
Getting drywall up to the ceiling can be tough. You may have seen professionals or do-it-yourselfers hold it up to the ceiling with their heads. This works, but does require some coordination and can be kind of awkward.
You can rent a rig called a drywall lift. You load a sheet on it, then crank it up to the ceiling. It holds the sheet in place while you nail or screw it to the joists.
You can also use a couple of drywall jacks to hold sheets of drywall up to the ceiling. You can construct these out of 2x4's. Make the overall height just an inch or two taller than the height from the floor to the underside of the joists or trusses.
Using 4-foot sheets on a standard 8-foot wall usually leaves you with about a 1/2" gap left. You want to leave this on the bottom so it gets covered up with baseboard. To help hold the bottom sheet up snug to the top one use a drywall lifter. You just step on one side of it and it lifts the sheet up. You can also use a pry bar for this.
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For nailing up sheets of drywall, a drywall hammer is a must. It has a convex head that creates a little dimple around the nail head without breaking the paper on the surface of the drywall. This will allow you to cover the nail head with drywall mud and get a perfectly smooth surface.
Using drywall screws can go a lot faster, if you have the right tool. You want to use a special electric drywall screw gun that lets you adjust it to sink the screws a little below the surface, again, so you don't break the paper. With a regular screw gun you don't have this control.
Finishing Tools
The "art" of taping comes from using different sized taping knives to get a smooth, tapered joint.
For the first "tape coat" you'll need a taping knife that's 5" or 6" wide. With each of the next two coats you'll want to cover an inch or two farther in each direction so you'll probably need an 8" to 10" knife and a 12" to 14" knife.
Use a mud pan to hold the mud as you tape the joints.
For sanding the joints, use either a pole sander for dry sanding, or a wet sanding pad.
For applying texture to ceilings you'll want to rent a sprayer specifically designed for this job.
On our pages, we use the generic term "drywall" when talking about gypsum board. You will also hear it called "wallboard", or referred to by the brand name "Sheetrock". It's got a gypsum core, with a coarse paper on the back, and a smooth paper on the finish side.
Drywall sheets come in 4'x8', 4'x10', 4'x12', and even larger. We recommend 4'x8' sheets for do-it-yourselfers; they're a little easier to work with.
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For ceilings and walls with 16" on-center framing use standard 1/2" drywall. For 24" on-center framing, use 5/8" drywall.
For curved walls you want to use either 3/8" or 1/4" drywall. It usually requires wetting before forming on a curved wall. 1/4" drywall shouldn't be used as a single layer, but should be used over an existing surface.
Water-resistant drywall or "greenboard" has the same gypsum core as drywall, but it has a water-resistant facing. It is typically used in wet areas such as a bathtub or shower surround. It's not water-proof, however, and will deteriorate from moisture penetration.
Concrete backerboard, often called by the brand names "Durock" and "Wonder Board", is used as backing for ceramic tile. It has a solid concrete core and is faced on both sides with fiberglass. It's ideal for wet areas like shower walls and bathtub surrounds.
Fasteners
When nailing drywall into wood framing use ring shank nails. These hold into wood better, and will prevent "popping" later on. Standard length is 1-1/4" for 1/2" drywall, and 1-3/8" for 5/8" drywall.
When using a screw gun, use drywall screws. 1-1/4" screws are needed for 1/2" drywall, and 1-5/8" screws are needed for 5/8" drywall.
Types of Joint Compound
Joint compounds are available powdered or pre-mixed.
Powdered joint compounds come in different textures. Taping compound is used for the tape coat. It is stronger and courser than the compounds used for the finishing process. Topping compound is thinner and finer. It's used for the fill and finish coats, and for texturing.
All purpose joint compound is halfway between a taping and a topping compound. It comes pre-mixed and is a good choice for do-it-yourselfers.
Chemically setting compounds come in powdered form only. They are generally very strong and therefore difficult to sand. A do-it-yourselfer might use this to patch and fill gaps created when remodeling plaster for walls.
Before covering up your walls with drywall, you will need to get an inspection done on your mechanical work and insulation. This is necessary to make sure your work is complying with all building codes.
Climate conditions can be a factor in your drywalling job. Temperature and humidity can affect the performance of the joint treatment materials. Your house temperature should be maintained at a minimum 55 degrees for 48 hours before and 48 hours after the completion of the drywalling. And in humid areas, ventilation should be provided.
The delivery of drywall panels should coincide with the installation schedule. In new construction, drywall is not applied until after the windows and exterior doors have been installed.
Framing and Nailers
Make sure that all your studs and joists are straight, secure, and spaced properly. The nailing faces should all be flush and aligned in a level plane. Excessively bowed or crooked studs or joists should not be used.
Cross furring should be used to correct surface unevenness in the existing framing.
There should be nailers at every corner; on both sides of vertical corners and headers. No edge of drywall should go unsupported for more than two feet.
Non-loading walls, and vaulted and trayed ceilings are usually trouble spots for nailers.
Insulation and Vapor Barriers
Before covering up your walls, you want to be sure that the proper insulation and vapor barriers are in place.
If you have "un-faced" insulation batts in your exterior walls make sure that you put a vapor barrier up. This will prevent moisture from condensing inside your walls. In colder climates, the vapor barrier goes on between the insulation and the drywall, in warm climates it goes between the sheathing and the insulation to keep it dry during warm weather.
Nailing in Metal Plates
If a pipe or wire runs through a hole in a framing member, and the hole is within 1-1/4" of the edge of the wood, place a 1/16" metal protective plate along the edge of the wood. This will prevent drywall screws and nails from puncturing the pipe or cable. This is a code requirement in most areas.
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To estimate the number of sheets of drywall you'll need, first determine the total square footage of walls and ceilings. Don't subtract at all for doors and windows. Then add 10% for a waste allowance.
Divide the total square footage by 32 if you'll be using 4'x8' sheets (40 for 4'x10' sheets, 48 for 4'x12' sheets). Round up for the number of sheets you'll need.
For every 1,000 square feet of drywall ordered, buy:
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370 feet of joint tape
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140 pounds of ready-mixed joint compound
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700 screws
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700 nails
Keeping Things Safe
Gypsum dust can cause eye and respiratory irritation. Protect your eyes and lungs. Wear safety glasses and particle masks when appropriate and provide proper ventilation for the work site.
Know your tools and use them only on jobs they were specifically designed to handle.
Dull tools are unsafe and can harm the work. Always work with sharp cutting blades. Maintain your tools and always disconnect the power when working on a tool.
Use caution when working from saw horses, scaffolding or ladders. Make sure the ladders' feet are secure on the ground. Never attempt to stretch while on a ladder.
Keep children away from the work area and power tools as well as harmful materials, adhesives and solvents.
Keep a clean work site and don't let debris accumulate.
Use full sheets of drywall whenever possible. Cut the length of the sheet so that the end falls in the center of a joist or stud.
To cut a sheet for length, first set it upright with the finish side out. Measure out the length with a tape measure. Then using a drywall T-square on that mark as a guide, score the front side with a utility knife.
Snap the drywall back. It should break apart right at the cut. That doesn't cut the paper on back, though, so to finish the cut run the knife blade down the back side to cut the waste free.
Making cuts along the length of a sheet is a little trickier. One way is to snap a chalkline along the sheet and then score the line by hand. Be aware, though, that sometimes the chalk will bleed through the paint. If you have an 8' straight edge that would work, too.
Another way to make this kind of cut is with a tape measure. Hold the tape measure in your left hand with your thumb and fore finger at the dimension you want. Hold the blade of your utility knife under the end of the tape, holding it against the hook. Now run your left hand across the top of the board, and score the drywall with the knife. This is not a super-accurate method, but it's good enough for hanging drywall.
When you need to cut inside corners, cut one side with a drywall saw. Then score the other side with a utility knife and snap it back like you would any other cut.
Another way to cut inside corners is to first install the piece, then cut it with a drywall saw along the framing.
Cutting for Lights, Switches and Outlets
Cutting holes in drywall for lights, switches and outlets requires careful measuring and marking.
For round light fixtures, like recessed lights, measure from the edge of where the drywall sheet will go to the center of the circle. Do this from both the side and top. Then transfer these measurements to the sheet of drywall.
Use this mark for the center of your circle hole cutter. Also measure the radius of the round fixture to set the arm length of the cutter. Score the circle several times, then tap it out with a hammer.
You can also use a compass to draw the circle and a keyhole saw to make the cut.
For switch and outlet boxes, measure from the side edge of where the sheet will go to the right and left side of the box. And measure from the top edge to the top and bottom of the box. Transfer these to the sheet of drywall and cut it with a keyhole saw.
When hanging drywall always work from the top to the bottom. And always run the drywall sheets perpendicular to the framing.
Hang drywall on ceilings before walls, so the sheets on the walls can help support the corners of the ceiling sheets.
Mark joist locations on top plates of the walls so the joists are easier to find when fastening ceiling sheets.
Then mark the stud locations of walls on the ceiling sheets and on the floors so they're easier to find when fastening the wall sheets.
Nails vs. Screws
Building codes have very strict regulations about how many fasteners need to be used to attach drywall.
Nails are the easiest to use for do-it-yourselfers who are not comfortable with a screw gun. For 1/2" drywall, use 1-1/4" ring shank nails. This type of nail holds better into wood framing and prevents "popping" later on.
Use a drywall hammer to set the nails. It has a rounded head that sets the nails just a little below the surface and leaves a shallow dimple without breaking the paper on the drywall. This dimple then gets filled in with joint compound later.
With nails you usually need one every 7 inches on ceilings and every 8 inches along walls. This may not be enough, depending on the thickness of the drywall and the spacing of the joists or studs.
Using drywall screws can go a lot faster, if you have the right tool. You want to use a special electric drywall screw gun that lets you adjust it to sink the screws a little below the surface.
Screws are stronger than nails. You usually only need to use one screw every 12 inches along the ceilings and every 16 inches on walls.
TIP: Trying to pry out a bent nail may tear up more drywall than it's worth. Just nail it in so it's not sticking out from the surface and then mud over it later.
We've usually found that's it's easiest to use nails along the edges to get the sheets up, then go back and use screws "in the field."
Hanging Drywall on Ceilings
Getting sheets of drywall up to the ceiling can be tricky. And once you get them up, holding them in place while you screw or nail them is another challenge. You'll need the help of a drywall lift or drywalls jacks for this...although some people just use their heads!
Once you get a sheet in place, just nail or screw around the edges of the sheet. Then you can take the lift or jacks away (or give your head a rest if you're using that).
You can wait until all the sheets are up to put the fasteners in the middle. Although, sometimes it's easier to do this right away because you can see better where the joists are.
When fastening around the edges, keep the screw or nail at least 3/8" back from the edge so you don't fracture the drywall.
Start the ceiling using full sheets, and cut them so the edge is centered on a joist.
Stagger the joints between sheets from row to row, this will make your walls stronger.
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Taping Before starting the taping process, make sure corner bead is installed on all outside corners.
Also make sure that all the fastener heads are sunk below the surface of the drywall. You can check them by running a taping knife over the drywall. If you hear a "click" you've got a nail or screw that needs to be sunk deeper. Just give the nails an extra tap, or give the screws a twist with a phillips-head screwdriver.
Professional tapers sometimes notch out the butt joints so they have more space for the first pass of joint compound. This helps eliminate the "hump" that you might get when taping these joints.
The entire finishing process is about a 4- step, 4-day process. The first step is called the "tape coat." This is when you apply joint compound to the seams and embed paper joint tape in it.
First Pass of Tape Coat
Mix up your joint compound. If you're working with pre-mixed compound, don't mix it too much, this can work air into the mixture and then you can get little bubbles and craters on the surface of the wall.
Starting on the ceiling, first spread out a layer of "mud", as the professionals call it, over the joints. For this first coat use a 5" or 6" taping knife.
Be generous with the mud at this point. Spread out more than you need to fill the seam.
TIP: The trick to spreading out mud is to hold the knife almost vertical to the drywall when it's full of mud, and press it flatter as you move along the joint. This spreads the mud evenly over the whole stroke of the knife.
Embedding Joint Tape
For the second pass, lay a piece of joint tape over the center of the joint. Press it lightly with your hand--just to make it stick for now.
Then go back and flatten the tape into the mud, working from the center of the joint out to the sides.
You can use pretty firm pressure with this stroke. You'll end up scraping off some of the excess mud, just leave some mud under the tape.
TIP: As you tape, keep your knife clean. Constantly scrape it off the side of the pan. Mud that stays on your knife will dry out faster.
The last step for the tape coat is to spread a very thin layer of mud out on top of the tape.
This requires a gentle touch. The layer should be thin enough that the tape is still visible through the mud.
Don't worry too much about a few grooves and streaks on the surface for now. There'll be more coats to smooth it out later.
Inside corners also get treated with joint tape. There may or may not be tapered edges here, but it doesn't really matter too much. Slightly uneven walls won't be as visible in the corners as on a flat wall.
First apply a thin layer of joint compound inside the seam and on both sides of the corner.
Measure and cut off the length of joint tape you need. Then fold the tape in half and press it into the corner. Most brands of tape come with a crease in the middle to make this easier.
Press the tape into corner, then run a knife down each side to set it into the mud and to work out any excess mud.
Lightly coat both sides with joint compound again.
Outside Corners
The outside corner bead will have a little valley between the metal ridge on the corner and the surface of the drywall. Now you want to fill this with mud.
With mud on your knife, run it down each side of the corner bead. Hold the knife at about a 45 degree angle; it should be touching the wall and the ridge at the corner. Scrape off anything that rises above that level. Clean off any bits of mud left on the ridge.
You should end up with about a 4" wide band of mud on either side of the corner.
Mudding Fastener Heads
The last thing you have to do for the tape coat is to cover all of the screw and nail heads.
It just takes a small amount of mud to cover these, but start by troweling on more than you need. And cover an entire row of screws with one stroke.
Gently scrape off the excess mud with the taping knife almost perpendicular to the surface. This will leave a very thin layer of mud all the way up and down the wall.
The mud over the screw and nail heads will shrink a little, so you'll have to repeat this step with each of the next two coats.
Wrapping up for the day
When you finish the tape coat, you need to let it all dry at least overnight. Clean all your tools real thoroughly. If you have any dried mud left on your knives it'll cause little gouges when you do your next coat.
Throw out any mud left in your pans. Scrape down the sides of the mud bucket, and pour a little water on top of it to keep it from drying out. Pour this water off before using the mud the next time.
The tape coat leveled off everything, and the next two coats will make the surfaces smooth.
You need to use wider taping knives for these coats, from 7 to 12 inches. You want to build the joints up a little in the middle and then feather them out smoothly.
And you want to apply the mud a little differently, too, with a little less pressure and a little more patience.
Mudding Joints on Flat Walls and Ceilings
Use your taping knife to put more mud on the joint. Then smooth it out with a stroke down each side, then one down the middle.
For the side strokes, put more pressure on the outside of the knife and let it ride a little high in the center. For the center stroke keep even pressure on the knife.
With factory joints, this coat should extend about two inches wider on each side than the tape coat. Butt-joints, if you recall, don't have the beveled edges that the factory joints do so the they'll tend to build up higher with each coat of mud. Because of this you'll have to feather them even farther than with the factory joints.
After this coat is done you should not be able to see the joint tape.
Screw and nail heads get covered with another layer of mud at this stage too. The mud from the first coat has probably shrunk a little so you just want to fill them in flush with the surface.
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Inside corners are a little trickier than flat joints. Once you've feathered one side it's tough to work on the second side without disturbing the first.
One way to solve this is to use a corner knife. Professionals do a coat on one side of the corner, then wait for that to dry before doing the second side.
The finish coat is where you have to be a real artist. You don't want to leave any grooves or streaks after you're done.
Before starting, scrape a wide knife over all the joints to smooth them out a little. This removes the ridges and tool marks. You want the base to be as smooth as possible for this final coat.
Finish Coat on Walls
When the joints are still dry, check to see if you have any large humps. Do this by holding the edge of a knife against them and rocking it back and forth. If you've got a large hump, you'll have to feather the joint more.
You can use the joint compound straight out of the can. Some professionals like to thin the mud out a little for the first coat and this last one. It's really a matter of personal preference.
If you do thin your mud, do it with only a cup of water at a time. And don't get it so runny that it falls off the knife. And keep in mind that thinning the mud too much will weaken it.
For this coat you should be using wide knives, about 8" for the screw and nail heads, and up to 12" for the joints. Use the same techniques as the last coat, only here you want to feather the joints as smoothly as possible.
Textured Ceilings
Ceilings tend to be the most exposed part of a drywall job. Light thrown across it by ceiling fixtures really bring out any irregularities in the surface. Walls are usually broken up by furniture, windows, door or wall hangings, so their flaws are a lot less noticeable.
The most common way to treat a ceiling is with a texture to help hide any mistakes.
One treatment we've used is sometimes referred to as "knockdown." For this you need to rent a sprayer and use it to "splatter" thinned joint compound onto the ceiling. There are also special texturing compounds made just for this purpose. After the mud sets up a few minutes, you flattened it with a broad taping knife.
Some people like a more "pebble-like" appearance to the ceilings. For this type of effect, you mix part mud, part paint, and part aggregate, which are small vermiculite-like particles.
This type of texture doesn't get flattened out. But, as with the other texture, it'll still be necessary to scrape the over spray off the walls.
You can also get different ceiling effects by rolling the texture on instead of spraying it. You can even swirl, or "stipple" it with a stiff brush.
Ceiling Skim Coat
The moisture and heat in bathrooms and kitchens are more likely to cause dirt and stains on the ceilings. For these areas many people choose to go with a flat surface on the ceilings which is easier to clean.
This is called a "skim coat", and it's applied instead of a third coat as a smooth, thin layer of mud over the entire ceiling. Be aware that this is a challenging job for a novice taper.
First sand down the mudded areas of the ceiling. Apply this coat with a 10 or 12 inch wide trowel.
Work in as large of an area as you're comfortable with. Load up some mud and then spread it out over the area. Then go back and smooth it out. You actually end up taking off almost all the mud that you put on.
Sanding down the walls is the final step to prepare them for priming. You also sand ceilings if you've put a "skim coat" on them. This will smooth down any last little ridges you may have.
Sanding is very dusty work so use particle masks. And use plastic to seal off doorways or vents that lead to other parts of the house.
Sanding
Pole sanders are good for reaching up to ceilings and walls. Poles with swivels on the ends make them easy to maneuver almost anywhere.
If you use sandpaper, use 120 to 150 grit. Open screens probably work better because the dust doesn't build up in the grit, like it does with sandpaper, it falls out of the screen.
If your mud is pretty smooth already, you might want to try wet-sanding with a sponge. You need a dense sponge that's been wrung out pretty well. Rub it over the joints, smoothing them out. This method eliminates the huge mess you get with dry sanding.
Clean the sponge out frequently. This method doesn't scrape up the bare paper, and doesn't raise a lot of dust.
Cleaning up is a significant part of drywall work. You'll need to vacuum up the dust several times as it gets in the smallest cracks.
Priming
You may notice that once you sand the joints smooth, they have a harder and glossier texture than the drywall, which is softer and more papery to the touch.
A good primer/sealer will help hide these differences and any imperfections on your walls. It'll also serve as a good under-coating for your finish paint so it won't absorb into some areas more than others.
If you're just going to be painting over the primer, you can use a primer specifically for finish paints. If you plan on wallpaper, use a primer with "sizing" in it. Sizing will help the wallpaper adhere to the wall and also make removing the wallpaper a lot easier.
You can also put sizing on the walls separately when you do decide to wallpaper.
Small nail holes or shallow dents can be repaired pretty easily with a little bit of patching compound and a putty or taping knife. Then let the compound dry, sand over it, then prime and paint.
Nails will sometimes pop through the surface if they are not holding properly. To fix this, first resink the nail into the drywall. Then drive a new screw in next to the nail to hold the drywall into the framing. Apply compound over both fastener heads. When they dry, you can sand and prime over them.
Patching Larger Holes
Larger holes in drywall are difficult to patch because there's no backing material behind them.
There are a few ways to build new backing. One way is to take a piece of cardboard, slightly larger than the hole, and tie a string through the middle of it.
Insert the cardboard into the hole and pull the string tight. Then while holding it tight, apply a first coat of patching compound to fill the hole.
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Once it's dry, cut the string and apply a second coat. To help strengthen the patch you can apply some fiberglass tape to the seams and then tape over that. Feather out the compound around the hole with a wide knife. Let it dry and sand it smooth.
You could also use plywood strips as the backer, cutting them longer than the hole, but narrow enough to go through the hole. Secure them by screwing into them through the drywall and use enough to provide backing for the entire hole.
Then finish the patch as described above.
Another method is called the "hat patch." For this you cut a piece of drywall the size of the hole, but leave the paper on front run an inch or two longer. The paper will serve as the joint tape.
Insert the "hat" into the hole with some joint tape around the drywall. Cover the patch with two coats of joint compound. Then sand it and prime over it.
Concrete backerboard is usually used as an underlayment for ceramic tile. It can be used on walls, floors or countertops.
Concrete backerboard has a solid concrete core and is faced on both sides with fiberglass. It's an ideal underlayment for wet areas like shower walls and bathtub surrounds.
Some backer board is a bit thinner than drywall. If your backer board meets a drywall surface, you may have to first fur out the studs with strips of builders felt to make the surfaces flush.
Cutting Concrete Backerboard
Cutting backerboard is a lot like cutting drywall, except that backerboard is much harder. Using a framing square, score your cut line a few times. You can use a regular utility knife for this, but you'll go through a lot of blades. A special carbide-blade cutter works better.
TIP: If you're using a utility knife, shorten the blade to keep it from breaking.
Break the board by applying pressure until it snaps apart along the score line. You'll probably have to cut through the fiberglass on the back also.
Installing Concrete Backerboard
Start installing backerboard at the furthest back wall and work your way from the bottom up.
TIP: If you're working in a bathtub or shower put a blanket down before you work to protect the surfaces from getting scratched or chipped.
Use galvanized nails or screws to secure the backerboard. If you're working above a shower pan, be sure to nail or screw above it so you don't puncture the fabric.
The ends of the backerboard sheets should be centered over the studs, but stagger the joints so they don't line up with one another. Leave about 1/8" space between the sheets of backerboard.
Cut holes in the backerboard for around shower and bath controls. Score the mesh on both sides of the board and hammer on it until it breaks out.
Finishing Concrete Backerboard Seams
You want to mud and tape the joints of the backerboard also.
First fill the joint with tile adhesive using a taping knife, Then put fiberglass tape over the seam and put more tile adhesive over that.
Like drywall, the sheets have tapered edges, this allows you to fill the joints and still stay level with the backerboard. For a ceramic tile underlayment, one coat of mud is enough.
45 years of drywall taping, finishing, repair experience and a do it right attitude assures that you are hiring the best contractor for the work that needs to be done on your home. Estimates are always free and no job is to small.
Call Jim 919-542-5336 for popcorn texture removal or repair in Durham. Prompt, reliable professional workmanship for over a quarter century.
Popcorn Texture Removal Durham
https://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call Jim 919-542-5336 for popcorn texture removal or repair in Durham. Estimates are always free. NO JOB TO SMALL.
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